To Visit Link :: http://www.fileinspect.com/

Linux Commands

Man
Which
Whereis

Invoking Programs
Linux OS Directories

Mounting & UnMounting Devices
Searching for Files
CPU Information & Stats

System Commands in /bin
System Commands in /etc
System Commands in /sbin
System Commands in /usr/bin
System Commands in /usr/sbin

How can I empty a file?

Issue the following command to empty a file that currently exists:

cp /dev/null

How can I see how large a folder is on the system?

Issue the following command to see how large a folder is and the files it contains:

du -h

How can I find out how many files are within a specific folder?

ls | wc -l

How can I copy all the contents of one folder into another?

cp -r

How can I delete all of the files in a folder and the folder itself?

rm -r

How can I remove all files older than 7 days?

find \ (-name '*' \) -atime +7 -exec rm {}\

Just the change the +7 to a specific number of days if required.

I had an old beige Mitsubishi monitor on my desk which I was about to use as a second monitor although my other monitor was a black DELL monitor. I also have a black and silver keyboard, wrist rest, webcam and mouse and now some new 2.1 black speakers, also the top of my desk they all sit on is also black, so there is no way I could have a beige monitor on my desk, it just did not look right, so I spray painted my monitor black and here is how I did it.

All photos are of the monitor after being sprayed, unfortunately I only thought of writing this after I had completed the spraying.

Spray Paints

My journey started off with a visit to the Wilkinsons chain in the high street. They stock a good selection of well priced enamel paints in spray cans. If you do not have a Wilkinsons near you then any hardware store should stock some spray paint. There are a great range of spray paint available including paint for BBQ's, Chalkboards and more. There is also a range of finishes including satin, matt and gloss as well as a wide range of colours. For this task I chose a plasti-kote 'Super Matt' can which was £3.99.

Setting up and Spraying the monitor

After getting home I unscrewed the back off of the monitor and took off the swivel pedestal on the bottom.

Before I sprayed the pedestal and rear case in my shed I covered the serial number and model no. of the monitor with masking tape.

In the shed I covered the floor with cardboard and kept the door open, as its important to have good ventilation when using spray paints.

When spraying make sure you keep an even distance from the object and if you see heavy areas of paint forming or the paint running then you are too close.

Spraying the front of the monitor

I then needed to spray the front of the monitor, I started to use masking tape and newspaper to cover the screen and also used some blue tak to cover up the leds on the front of the monitor.

Using masking tape is one idea, but after a while of it not sticking for me, I found I could unscrew the front of the monitor case away from the tube and board inside the monitor, this allowed me to just leave the guts of the monitor on it's own but have the case completely separate.

Here are the screws holding the monitor to the front of the case:

I would recommend trying this before using asking tape on the monitor screen as saves time and gives a better finish.

Second Can of Spray Paint

Once I started spraying the front of the monitor I found my paint can had run out, so went back to Wilkinsons to get more, but typically found there was none of the 'Super Matt' cans left, so instead I chose a Wilko own make called 'Multi Surface Enamel' and that was only £2.79 a can.

Funnily enough the cheaper Wilko spray can gave a much better finish and went on easier, I recommend these cans.

You may get away with a single can, if doing a 15" monitor, but I would recommend 2 spray cans for 17" monitors and above.

Putting the monitor back together.

After allowing to dry for about 1 hour I then put the monitor back together and gave it a wipe down to make sure there was no black residue on the monitor.

I then removed the blu tak from the leds and removed the masking tape from the serial and model number stickers.

Hey presto a new black monitor.

Explorer.exe is a safe file developed by Microsoft Corporation. The file is part of Microsoft Windows Operating System. The explorer.exe file is a Windows GUI shell, that is usually called Windows Explorer. Its graphical user interface lets you see your hard drives, folders, and files. At first explorer.exe was used only to browse files, but with the release of newer Windows versions it evolved to being a task-based file management system.

Explorer.exe is usually located in the %WINDOWS% sub-folder and its usual size is 1,032,192 bytes.

Note: The explorer.exe file should be in the C:\Windows folder. If you find it anywhere else, then explorer.exe is a virus, trojan, worm, or spyware!

Important: ZAPCHAS-AC can mask itself as explorer.exe.

I've been researching how to load firefox faster. So better follow this steps:

1. Go to the schortcut of firefox and click on it.

2. Then put this in the target tab /Prefetch:1

so the line will look like this :

C:\Program Files\Mozilla Firefox\firefox.exe" /Prefetch:1

Note:
use space between exe" and /prefetch:1


It really works on me.

Note: The one posted here is not the same thing. This one has been tested and increases the speed, an update to perform these same steps is avalailable on the mozilline.org forums as well. Type in the Address Bar - about:config Then scroll over to the following settings and adjust: network.http.max-connections :40 network.http.max-connections-per-server :20 network.http.max-persistent-connections-per-server :20 network.http.pipelining :True network.http.pipelining.maxrequests :32 network.http.proxy.pipelining :True Taken from here

This is one special Firefox 3,becouse is 30x times faster than the usual.

Download Here

Start >> Run >> regedit >> Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/SYSTEM/CurrentControlSet/Control.

Click on the "Control" Folder.

Select "WaitToKillServiceTimeout"

Right click on it and select Modify.

Set it to a value lower than 2000, say 1000 as a test
by Steps you can make windows faster to shutdown

thanks ::::

How to sove Explorer.exe Errors

- --> Sometimes explorer.exe gets corrupted or infected. When that happens, desktop drops and you can’t see any icons, there is no taskbar – all you get is your desktop background. Sometimes everything seems to be fine, but drops soon after booting up, then keeps re-appearing and disappearing so fast that you can’t run any programs, open documents, etc.

Luckily, there is a way to fix this issue without having to reinstall Windows: <---
Run >> regedit >> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Image File Execution Options

There might be sub-keys named explorer.exe and iexplorer.exe under this key. Those keys should not be listed under the Image File Execution.options registry key. Delete them entirely.

Close Registry Editor.

Reboot your computer.

If there are no other infections, Windows desktop should load fine now.

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When Windows Explorer Crashes

Some people suffer from regular Windows Explorer crashes. Usually Explorer crashes when you are browsing your folders or right-click a file or a folder.

Most likely third-party shell extensions cause these problems. Some application that you install add a context menu shortcut of their own. So when you right-click in Windows Explorer, you get more options, e.g. to scan a file or a folder with your anti-virus software and various other non-standard options.



Now, if for some reason those extensions aren’t working properly, you might start getting errors when right-clicking. The easiest way to get rid of those errors is to disable the faulty extension. But how to find out which one is the culprit?

There is a tool called ShellExView that lets you view and disable and re-enable each shell extension. Run it and you’ll see all shell extensions installed on your computer. Then sort them in such a way that all non-Microsoft extensions are grouped together:



Then disable all non-Microsoft items and do exactly what cause Explorer crash to check it out. If the problem is gone, then one of the extension was causing it. Re-enable them one by one and test Windows Explorer after enabling each of them. After finding the culprit, try updating the software or contact the manufacturer (ShellExView gives you the information about manufacturer and version number). Or just stop using that extension and find an alternative.



ShellExView :: to download

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=shellexview+free+download&aq=6&oq=shellexv&aqi=g10



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How to Safely Terminate explorer.exe

Even though disabling explorer.exe is not recommended, you might need to do it. Of course, it is possible to kill it from the Task Manager, but terminating any process in such a way can be dangerous. There is a better, absolutely safe way to stop the explorer.exe process.

In Windows XP you’ll need to get to the shutdown dialog, hold down Ctrl+Shift+Alt keys and then click the Cancel button.

In Vista (standard Start menu) click on the Start button, then hold down Ctrl+Shift and right-click on any empty area in the Start menu (or on the power button). Select Exit Explorer in the context menu. If you have classic Start menu, use the XP method described above.



After that you’ll have to start explorer.exe manually. To do that open Task Manager (Ctrl+Alt+Del or Ctrl+Shift+Esc). In the Task Manager go to File – New Task (Run) – type in explorer and click OK. That will bring the shell back.

Also known as a Real Time Clock (RTC), Non-Volatile RAM (NVRAM) or CMOS RAM, CMOS is short for Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor. CMOS is an on-board semiconductor chip powered by a CMOS battery inside computers that stores information such as the system time and system settings for your computer. A CMOS is similar to the Apple Macintosh computer's PRAM (Parameter RAM, PRAM). To the up is an image of a CMOS battery on a computers motherboard and the most common CMOS battery you're likely to encounter with your computer.






To the up is some examples of other types of batteries that may be used in a computers to power the CMOS memory. As mentioned above the most common type of battery is the coin cell battery (lithium battery), usually about the size of a U.S. Nickel.

The standard lifetime of a CMOS battery is around 10 Years. However, this amount of time can change depending on the use and environment that the computer resides.

__________________________________________________

How to enter the BIOS or CMOS setup.

Issue:

How to enter the BIOS or CMOS setup.

Solution:

Because of the wide variety of computer manufacturers and BIOS manufacturers over the evolution of computers, there have been numerous different ways to enter the BIOS or CMOS Setup. Below is a listing of the majority of these methods as well as other recommendations for entering the BIOS setup.

New computers

Thankfully, computers that have been manufactured in the last few years will allow you to enter the CMOS by pressing one of the below five keys during the boot. Usually it's one of the first three.

• F1
• F2
  
• DEL
• ESC
• F10

A user will know when to press this key when they see a message similar to the below example as the computer is booting. Some older computers may also display a flashing block to indicate when to press the F1 or F2 keys.

Press to enter BIOS setup

Tip: If your computer is a new computer and you are unsure of what key to press when the computer is booting, try pressing and holding one or more keys the keyboard. This will cause a stuck key error, which may allow you to enter the BIOS setup.

Older computers

Unlike the computers of today, older computers (before 1995) had numerous different methods of entering the BIOS setup. Below is a listing of general key sequences that may have had to be pressed as the computer was booting.

• CTRL + ALT + ESC
• CTRL + ALT + INS
• CTRL + ALT + ENTER
• CTRL + ALT + S
• PAGE UP KEY
• PAGE DOWN KEY

ACER BIOS

If your computer is unable to boot or you wish to restore the BIOS back to bootable settings and your computer uses an ACER BIOS, press and hold the F10 key as you turn on the computer. While continuing to hold the F10 key, you should hear two beeps indicating that the settings have been restored.

AMI BIOS

Older AMI BIOS could be restored back to bootable settings by pressing and holding the Insert key as the computer is booting.

BIOS / CMOS diskettes

Early 486, 386, and 286 computers may have required a floppy disk in order to enter the BIOS setup. These diskettes are known as ICU, BBU, and SCU disks. Because these diskettes are unique to your computer manufacturer, you must obtain the diskettes from them.

Early IBM computers

Some models of early IBM computers required that the user press and hold both mouse buttons as the computer was booting in order to enter the BIOS setup.

Other suggestions

Finally, if none of the above suggestions help get you into your CMOS setup you can cause a stuck key error, which will usually cause the CMOS setup prompt to appear and remain until you press a key to continue. To do this press and hold any key on the keyboard and do not let go (you may get several beeps as you're doing this). Keep holding the key until the computer stops booting and you're prompted with an option to enter setup or to press another key to continue booting.